Veterinarian Care .us

Husbandry is the art of providing food and shelter, as well as being the cleaning service, laundry service, home builder, repair man, electrician, meteorologist, biologist, psychologist, and physiologist for your reptile. You see, our job as reptile owners is to provide the most perfect five star resort for our reptile as possible.

Diet recommendations require species specific information. Classifying them as herbivorous, carnivorous, or omnivorous is a good starting place. Herbivores are vegetarians, ancient cows as it were. For an herbivore, protein creates problems. Not all herbivores are the same and species native to dry grasslands do not do well with fresh greens. Others need an abundance of calcium rich fresh greens, it depends on the species. The menu of a carnivore includes any thing with two or more legs or fins. Dead or alive, even some processed foods are ok. You are what you eat, make sure the menu item has had nutritious meals itself. Omnivores are undisciplined vegetarians who can handle protein (they need some protein), just do not over do it.

If you have checked into it, there is a dizzying array of supplements available. The right supplements are important, the wrong ones can be harmful. In most cases, the use of a phosphorous free calcium supplement should be used daily. A simple calcium powder dusted on the food will do. A vitamin mineral supplement containing vitamins A, B, C, and D needs to be sprinkled on the food, but only twice a week. More is not better on this. Vitamin D is essential in calcium absorption and metabolism, but twice a week is enough. Whenever insects are fed (mostly for omnivorous species), they should be “gut loaded” (fed a nutritious meal).

How do we create the perfect environment for our reptile? Again, species specific recommendations rule here. Generally, this picture gives you an idea.

Glass or Plexiglas makes the best enclosure. Wood and wire mesh should not be used.

Temperatures within the cage should be within a species specific range and a gradient of hot to cool across the cage. Measuring the temperature is a must, without it you are only guessing. We recommend at least two thermometers (stick on strips work fine), one on each end of the cage to confirm the temperature gradient.

Most of the time, you will need at least one heat source. Radiant is best. A heat lamp or ceramic heater can be adjusted to get the preferred temperature range in the basking area. Hot rocks are not recommended due to the likelihood of a burn. Ok to have a hot rock, just don’t plug it in. Under the cage heaters are OK.

A full spectrum light is recommended. These are not ordinary bulbs. They must be truly full spectrum and it is best to leave the light on for daylight hours. Have this vary in a normal seasonal pattern. For nocturnal species, an ultraviolet light can be left on overnight. Access to direct sunlight a few hours a week is recommended. This means going outside, not through a window. One of the most common problems we see is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). Prevention or control of MBD requires the right kind of radiation for optimal calcium metabolism. Direct sunlight is best.

The humidity of the cage environment must be maintained in the optimum range for that species. In general, the ideal is usually 65% to 70%. Skin problems, abnormal shedding (dysecdysis), eye problems, respiratory problems, skin and systemic infections, and wounds can all be aggravated or even caused by the wrong humidity level. Once again, it is best to measure it.

Reptile metabolism requires control of environmental temperature, humidity, and exposure to full spectrum radiation. The latter is aided by providing a platform (usually elevated like a tree top) for basking. The basking area is especially important to lizards and is positioned in the warmest part of the cage.

The bedding you provide can be your pet’s friend or foe. Simplicity, ease of use, and practicality are all maximized by placing Astroturf artificial grass carpet in the bottom of the cage. Having 3 or 4 pieces cut to fit allow for a clean one to be placed, while one is being washed and another is drying (24 hrs). Rocks are ok if they are smooth and solid so they are easy to keep clean. Bark, gravel, sand, leaves and dirt are generally discouraged. There are exceptions. Never use cedar or cypress, the fumes are harmful.

Nearly all reptiles benefit from regular misting and soaking. A bathing area can be provided inside or outside the cage. If at all practical, it should not be the source of drinking water. Misting via an automatic system or a spray bottle can be an adequate substitute. Some species (chameleons and amphibians) rely on this to maintain their hydration. Soaking in warm water baths can assist in the animals shed, and can motivate a bowel movement.

Providing somewhere to hide (hide box) is important for all reptiles. It can be as simple as a plastic bowl turned upside down with a door cut in, or a clay pot turned on its side, or an artificial log etc.

Females may require an appropriate nesting substrate during the breeding season. This is usually a sand/mulch mixture and should be large enough for the reptile to be completely buried in.

Other furnishings and fixtures such as water bowls, plants, logs etc. should be easy to clean. Often plastic materials are best. Live plants, especially for herbivorous species are welcome. Ficus and Hibiscus are a good examples.

Good hygiene practices are another essential ingredient to keeping your pet reptile healthy. You should change the bedding as needed, at least weekly. Clean the cage and furnishings once every 1 to 2 weeks. Clean with diluted bleach, then wash with hot soapy water, rinse, and dry. Change the water daily.

Good hygiene is essential, not only to the reptile’s health, but to yours as well. Reptiles can be non-symptomatic carriers of Salmonella and this can be lethal. Children under the age of 7, the aged, and those who are immune-compromised are particularly susceptible to Salmonella from any source. Don't kiss a reptile. After handling, wash your hands with soap for at least 30 seconds, or use hand disinfectant. Disinfect any area you used to clean cages, dishes, etc. by using a 10% bleach solution. Use separate cleaning utensils, not the sponge you use to wash the dishes. Reptiles are NOT recommended if the owner is pregnant or has a young child or an immune compromised person in the home.